[I thought it safest to post this page after I left the country]

A return visit to Santa Clara and a viewing of Che Guevara’s mausoleum and ginormous statue gave me the chance to reflect upon Cuba’s recent past and possible future. It makes for unhappy reading.

Firstly Che. There’s no doubting the appeal of this poster child of the revolution. Sex appeal, political appeal, beard appeal, the boy had the lot. It’s not often in the recent past, and certainly not in my lifetime, that a truly inspirational leader of men and women has been on the world stage. And less still, a leader who’s been willing to get their hands dirty on the front line. Sometimes too dirty. It’s a romantic Boy’s Own tale of idealism, commitment, dedication to others and adventurous daring-do in an effort to improve the lives of millions. Of course, that’s not the full story. No doubt there are plenty of chapters that are less worthy, but his reputation has managed to remain more or less intact despite 60 years of scrutiny and besmirching. That says something to me. Articulate, well-travelled, modest and honest. At least that’s how he came across to me in the original audio recordings I listened to. What a contrast to the current ‘leader’ of the free world.

It was interesting to visit his museum and mausoleum beneath the colossal statue in Plaza de la Revolucion, Santa Clara. The museum was as expected; childhood black and white photos, various objects that Che was said to have used. I’m sure the curators wouldn’t let provenance get in the way of a good story, but I liked the story. Particularly his time as Editor of “Tackle” magazine (disappointingly not a brother publication of Attitude). I’ve been in many, many, changing rooms where there has been talk of war and trenches in a sporting sense, curious that this was also the grounding for Che.

The mausoleum was a tasteful and sombre affair. Interestingly, Che’s plaque was one of many, with little distinguishing it, alongside other comrades. I’ve been to places like this before and mostly I’m not a fan. However, that’s because everywhere else I’ve seen is of a famous dead person who is usually either royal (no thanks) or religious (no, no, no thanks). It’s possibly the first memorial where I felt a bit of empathy for the weight and importance of the person. Even if you hate the guy you have to admit that he has had an massive impact upon the world. I was struck by the relative lack of security (I hope Just Stop Oil are not reading this). However, the extremely surly young women who were following everyone around rather too closely probably have a pocketful of extremely quick acting “perfume” if anyone steps out of line.

I wonder what Che would make of it if he were still alive. Possibly too grandiose for him? It is quite a contrast to the simple boulder Fidel Castro chose to have as his tomb. My mind also goes back to a visit to the North London cemetery where Karl Marx is buried and where he has two graves: one a simple horizontal stone and another in a different place, a grand big busted affair.

And what do the people of Cuba make of the legacy of the revolution? Of all the local people I spoke to, I didn’t find one person who had anything good to say about it. When pressed and offered the opportunity to lay the blame on US sanctions, none did really, “we have had the blockade for a long time”. I found one or two who were happy to declare their support for Fidel Castro but think that the leaders since have made the country worse. I also found one or two that were proudly nationalistic about Cuba and refuse to leave because they love the country too much, but even they blamed the government for just about everything. They really are on their knees. Wages (when and if they are actually paid) are nowhere near enough to even survive. Everyone needs a side hustle that is their main hustle. Many survive just on money coming in from relatives abroad.

Electricity blackouts are common, internet is severely restricted or non existent, there are shortages of just about everything, made only worse by the bullying sanctions of the USA and the about face to increase the bullying after some real green shoots for a better future offered by Obama. Corruption is endemic and access to the few things that do come into the country is far from equal. Interestingly, not many are all that bothered about a restoration of electoral democracy, they’d be happier I think if the existing government just did a good job. There also isn’t a viable opposition to raise hopes of something different and the clampdown on dissent in recent years has shown the current regime to be more and more authoritarian.

So what future for Cuba? Well, the government did try to pump-prime a tourist industry but this was hit with Covid, then more bullying from the USA. Now the people blame them for building posh hotels for foreigners when there aren’t even enough working power stations for everyone else. But surely tourism can be only part of the solution. It’s not an industry that could support the whole population and is far too sensitive to global trends. The foreign tourists have already stopped coming and the domestic tourists can’t afford it. Most of the tourist orientated places I’ve been to have had a Covid style partial lockdown feel about them. Too much capacity with far too few people there. Unfortunately I think things will only get worse in the short term. More unnecessary harassment from the northern neighbour, no real solutions from a government out of ideas. More and more people struggling to make ends meet.

My prediction for the future if I had to make one is: a change in government to a more pro-western government (no idea when/how/if that might happen); a post-soviet style land grab with Cuban ex-pats jumping back over to buy up everything with any value; 10 years of extreme pain for the people; the creation of an oligarch class; improved living standards for the majority of Cubans within 15 years; creation of all the problems of the West, that Cuba currently doesn’t have.

I really wish it weren’t so.