For a few years now Cuba has been on my list of destinations I’d like to visit, in no small part due to its outstanding music scene. Many of us will have seen the landmark music film/recording artists/touring outfit the Buena Vista Social Club. This amazing documentary film brought almost forgotten (in the west) traditional Cuban music to new audiences by resurrecting the old heroes of the art form and giving them the chance to perform together again one last time. It left a mark on me.

Fast forward to a few years ago and Huey Morgan (6 Music/Fun Loving Criminals) took a film crew to Cuba to check out the music scene and found it to be alive and well, most particularly in Santiago. Live performances by simply outstanding musicians were shown to be part of the fabric of the city. Performing arts schools are given status and importance, where aspiring musicians can learn their craft over many years. As with all of these kinds of documentaries it’s hard to know exactly what is staged for the cameras, what is set up by local ‘fixers’, and what is genuine. Happily, it’s all true here.

It’s not going to be particularly easy to convey the once in a lifetime musical experiences I have witnessed. All I seem to have is a phone full of 20 second clips of a dozen bands, each more amazing than the last. No still photos. A head full of memories, some crystal clear, others hazy as hell, but perhaps that’s the point. It’s an immersive whole experience. The stifling heat, the lack of easily accessible food, the constant cacophony of this chaotic city, the overbearing demands for money, all serve as a relentless backdrop for the musical heartbeat of the city.

It’s not the kind of place where you have a nice meal, go to a venue, pull your tickets out of your pocket and sit down to watch 45 minutes – interval – 30 minutes – encore. It’s a place where the street pulls you in and spits you out. Set off in one direction and follow your ears where they take you.

At times, it’s felt like a fever dream… am I sober but just on the verge of heatstroke? Am I hungover from last night with a lack of sleep? Am I still drunk from last night? Am I drunk again. at this time already!? Sometimes it’s felt like stumbling around a big festival at 10am.. or searching for an afters rave venue. Attempting to use a toilet is a mockery.. oh no paper.. oh no seat… oh no water in the cistern.. oh no pipe connected to the basin plughole, I can see the floor though it. What time is it? What day is it? Don’t fight it Gus, embrace it.. what else are you gonna do? Sit safe and sound in your bedroom with the a/c on? Sober up and rest? Can’t you hear those congos calling from down the street? Actually, now you mention it I can… get up and do it then.. are you a man or a mouse (well, I do like cheese.). Just get a soft drink.. oh yea, fair enough.. soft drink please.. no tengo. Err OK cerveza? No tengo. What do you have? Ron Gus, Ron. This is Cuba mate. Err OK then a ron please. What day did you say it was again?

The music draws you in, inescapably. Slow traditional ballads with 3 part harmonies morph into extended 12″ re-mixes with bongo solos, bending the already preposterous African rhythms. Maracas sound like I’ve never heard them before. Call and response vocals involve the whole band.. then the friends of the band.. then the whole bar.. then the couple in their 70s jump up to dance salsa. The smoothest cat in the place in his shirt, tie and trilby probably remembers the day of the revolution. The band wind down and from 2 doors down a different band starts up and the whole bar shuffles next door. Away we go again…

Thankfully, it never feels like a performance for the tourists. Sure, there are a few there with their local boyfriends/girlfriends. Sure, it only looks like the tourists buying drinks. But the musicians still love it. The passion intensity and enjoyment can’t be faked when you’re sitting a few feet away.

The knowing glances between them, the pisstakes and improvisations. Other musicians come and go, popping in with their guitar case strapped to their back to hear a tune or two. Occasionally a friend of the band being asked up to sing a song or two. Someone always ready to jump on a cow bell or clave if the band are a person short.

The venues are nearly always free to enter. They offer the space to the bands and hope to get a few quid from drinks. Locals rarely buy drinks but do get drinks bought for them. The bands make a few quid by passing a basket around at the end. I always contribute, more or less matching what l’d pay at home to see a good local band. Here’s a quick rundown of the bands I’ve seen grouped by venue – serving more as a way to help me remember everything, as much as anything else:

Casa de las Tradiciones – The most beaten up and ramshackle venue in a rough looking part of town. Probably my favourite. The first night started with a group of oldies, mostly women, singing a capella sat around a table. Call and response songs which to my ears sounded quite African perhaps traditional songs from the time of slavery in these parts. These were followed up by a traditional Cuban band, all acoustic, great percussion section, double bass pointed against the wall to get the right boom.

Another time I went in, the patriarch of the place was playing some acoustic traditional classics. It was really touching to see him (maybe 90) searching his brain for the songs while the others in the band waited patiently and encouraged him. I later saw his portrait in La Trova (below) so he must be some kind of living legend I guess.

La Claqueta – A more modern late night venue, open air with a mesh roof. Less traditional sounding up-beat mostly salsa focused tunes but with a more polished feel, sharp brass section, 2 female lead vocalists with a big dude on an electric double bass chiming in on backing vocals. This place always has lots of salsa dancers, some of the best I have ever seen. On a different night the music was traditional African, a big lineup up African drummers and some dance performers. The crowd loved it. I think it was some of the same guys I saw in the theatre (below).

Casa Cultura Josue Pais – More of an arts centre than a venue. I was chilling in my accommodation and heard some really raw African sounds booming from here so went to go see. Unfortunately my ears can’t determine which part of Africa these sounds came from but it was definitely a bit different to any l’d heard before. Some men got up from the crowd to do some really intense and energetic dancing that I’d never seen. To me it looked and sounded a little bit voodoo orientated in some ways, so maybe West Africa via Haiti?

Corner Bar – A little venue which happened to have the band I’d seen at Claqueta but playing a more mixed acoustic set as I walked past. I went in to listen. Later on they played some contemporary covers which I wasn’t a huge fan of particularly.

Teatro Marti – A lovely little theatre outside the main centre which offers a ‘Cultural Show’ twice a week. Incredibly athletic dancers offer a story of Africa to Cuba accompanied by 5 drummers and 3 singers. Some of the same guys who played at Claqueta I think.

Casa de la Trova – Legendary venue with large upstairs room and smaller downstairs bar with a little stage. I saw a traditional band one might upstairs who were reasonably good, but the place was near empty so didn’t stay long. Daytime Saturday I saw about my favourite traditional band in the downstairs bar. It’s the same guys who busk daily around town. Probably the best of the best. Super tight (they’ve been doing it years) but also enthusiasm, a sense of fun and obvious deep joy for the music.

La Trova Café – A different but related venue. Another great traditional band but with younger members so a slightly different feel to these, more energy and a slightly harder sound. Also some kind of crazy bass box type instrument I’d never seen before, no idea what it’s called! Will have to look it up when I get home.

The streets – One day I spotted a group busking. They seemed to have some kind of hand cranked pipe organ that played the top end salsa sounds with other live musicians backing this, quite unique.